here to there.

My first journal entry.

June 4, 2011

The beginning. After several days, I have said all my goodbyes, completed the epic task of packing for a month of life in Africa (everything from clothes, to binoculars, to bug spray, to rings, to headlamps to eye drops) and mentally prepared, as much as realistically possible, for such an adventure. Now, I’m drinking in the North Carolina scenes from inside a tiny commuter jet, the last glimpses of Greensboro that I will see for a while. I’m fully aware that when I set eyes on this familiar landscape again, I will be a different person.  But isn’t that our daily story? Change is constant. There really is no “different,” just a truer form of ourselves.  We’re picking up speed...

After 30 days, 1385 photos, 4 flights, and 7 rounds of goodbyes I am home. Well, one of my homes. Tanzania graciously opened its arms to me, as I opened my eyes and heart as much as I knew how. It taught me about wildlife, conservation, the environment. But, most importantly, it taught me the African way of life. This life has no worries. Time means nothing. Frustration and negativity are traded for compassion, gentleness and encouragement. We are not perfect and it is not fair to expect perfection from anyone else. Hakuna Matata, what a wonderful phrase!

I thank you for all your thoughts and prayers. It means so much to me. As I conclude this inspiring journey, I hope it has sparked your own travel bug. After all, I need companions for the next grand adventure!

Tanzania, till we meet again...

karibu.

Serengeti Safari. Nearing sundown. Zebras galore!

"Twiga, twiga, SIMBA!" (Duck, duck, goose)  at the Primary School.

Tanzania, you have blessed me so.

wrap up.

This last week, especially the five days in the Serengeti, has been so incredibly busy.  Hence, between all the activities and lack of internet access, I have not had a chance to post. As we had a program debrief this morning and I continue to pack for the journey home, a whole puzzle of emotions circulate around camp.

From our crazy time in the Serengeti (which can only properly be explained in person), to the killer bike tour of Mtu Wa Mbu and time at the orphanage yesterday to our “prom” last night, my time in Tanzania has been an absolute blast.

As extremely excited as I am to reunite with everyone at home, I will also dearly miss the people here and a lot more...

1. Well, African life in general. No hurry. No worries.

2. Hakuna Matata. (A philosophy applied to everything, at every time of day.)

3. Time means nothing.

4. Being outside, all the time.

5. Infinite stars.

6. Dirt is your friend. (Especially when both your feet sink into the muck of Lake Manyara halfway through a bike tour under the sweltering sun.)

7. Random power outages. (Okay, those I will not miss.)

8. Men with rhythm.

9. Scrumptious breakfasts.

10. Ironically, bargaining for everything I bought.

11. Bongo flava music.

12. Baobab trees.

13. Moses, Bura, Arthur, Daniel.

blue balloon.

After lunch yesterday, we traveled to the orphanage in Mtu Wa Mbu. Erica, our program director, has volunteered there for the past few years so we were able to do the same.  The building was painted with butterflies and suns, lined with a dusty porch.  Before we were even briefed about our tasks, the kids ran out to greet us, grabbing our hands and jumping into our arms.  Each one had such a beautiful personality. Michael, who stayed in Dan’s arms for half the time, was all smiles. Another little girl was full of sass, only enhanced by the array of sunglasses she snagged from us, modeling them like a pro.

I helped organize the school supplies, a job that entailed sifting through boxes and piles of random papers, utensils, toys and pictures.  A few of the guys worked on the swing outside. The orphanage was also trying to open a duka (shop) for villagers and tourists. Thus, others sorted the paintings, jewelry and other items for sale, displaying a few outside.  We painted a sign to advertise the duka as well.

After the dust from our organizing cleared out and everything was in place, we were able to play with the kids. One little girl ran over and jumped in my lap, singing away.  I began bouncing my legs and playing along. She kept singing and bouncing way past the point of my legs aching. But, she loved it!  All the kids loved our camera, too!  When they weren’t smiling for pictures, they were taking them.  Some of us played soccer with the kids, some did puzzles.  One little boy found a recorder while we were organizing, so his attempt at a musical masterpiece was quite entertaining! Right when we were about to leave, another precious girl with a big, blue balloon ran up to me. I lifted her into the air and twirled her around in my arms. I couldn’t let her go. But, alas, it was time to leave.  With one last hug, I let her down and watched as she bounced off with her blue balloon.

As we drove away, kids were already lining up for the newly constructed swing! Energy. Charisma. Joy. All things that I’ve said before, but such interactions never cease to amaze me. Even though our return there is uncertain, our time spent with the children was positively delightful.

when in tanzania...

The only update from yesterday concerns the power. Thus, I would like to extend an emphatic thank you to my parents who made sure that I had everything suggested on the list of packing supplies. Today’s choice equipment was the very flattering headlamp...

We were without power for half the day.

Luckily, we all finished our papers before the power outage. The kitchen cooked over fire in the back, so dinner was not interrupted by this somewhat routine occurrence. After a few minutes we adjusted to it and went about our night, clad in our headlamps.

More exciting, a few of us walked to the tailor’s house this morning. After buying beautiful fabric in Mto Wa Mbu, I gave him the pieces to make a wrap-skirt and bag. He works from a sewing machine on his front porch, with piles of fabric surrounding him and rows of pants hanging overhead. His efficiency is incredible. Both of my pieces are perfect, completely handmade in Tanzania.

Up next: Ngorongoro Crater. But for now, studying for our exam tomorrow.

meet the maasai.

Recently, we were lucky enough to visit a Maasai Boma. The Maasia settled in this area around 200 years ago. Daniel, the Swahili professor and one of our drivers, is Maasai, along with a few other staff members. The group at this Boma greeted us with cultural singing and dancing—clad in their traditional, colorful fabric and large beaded necklaces.This lasted for quite a while, as they even pulled a few of our group into the dancing.

The Maasai traditionally practice pastoralism and have a large coral, lined with thorny bushes, where their livestock stay at night. The thorns are only minimally effective though, because wildlife still occasionally attack their animals. (This is one area of our research: their attitudes toward wildlife and proactive ways to alleviate the tension). As for their living space, mud houses suffice. A traditional Boma is made with sticks and mud, sometimes a thatch roof. Inside it  is dark and fly infested, no larger than my room at home.  After the boma, we had a chance to pass by their preschool, nothing more than a square mud structure- no books or blackboards in sight.

However, through the dust and the relentless flies, the fact that we had a chance to meet a Maasai tribe was quite eye-opening. Their resources are clearly limited: the closest water source was 6 km away. Their houses are tiny. Their livelihood is laborious. But these observations are all by my Western standards. This certainly does not make them any less joyful or welcoming. From our brief experience, all of these traits are more than plentiful resources.

footprints.

During my phone interview for the SFS program, I was told that there was a running path around camp. Perfect!

Running trail reality: dusty, sandy, rocky, hilly, horribly uneven.  Not the ideal situation. 

Nonetheless, after a few times walking it with a small group, I decided to take a break this afternoon from my report and brave the menacing trail. Without a doubt, the scenery trumped the terrain. 5:20 pm. Beaming African sun overhead; scattering red dust beneath. Winding through a jumble of small houses and fields overflowing with sunflowers. Rolling hillsides in the distance.

I was at the crest of a steep hill when I spotted five young children jumping, screaming, and waving from the bottom. Two little boys ran to meet me, each grabbing one of my hands and falling into step with me. I slowed down at the bottom of the hill to exchange with them as much Swahili as I knew, but somehow language didn’t seem to matter.  Dancing, smiling, jumping and singing were the only languages we needed.  Our little troop gallivanted along the path a little farther.  We were soon met by another towering hill, equal in caliber to the one I just sauntered down. But then again, how could I stop now with this jubilant parade surrounding me? We ran, and we ran...

the giving tree

So much in four days...where to begin?

For starters, I must note that dairy is not even on the radar when it comes to food in Tanzania. No cheese. No yogurt. No ice cream. The only milk in sight is in a bag...hydrogenated. However, Arthur, our charismatic chef, blessed us with all of these delicacies Tuesday. His gracious display somehow morphed the normal breakfast (eggs, hashbrowns, oatmeal and fruit) to also include grilled cheese and baked beans. Bizarre, but who turns down grilled cheese for breakfast after two weeks of withdrawal?

My day (which began with Cook Crew at the lovely hour of 6:30 am) continued to Tarangire National Park, about two hours from camp. Like on our trip to Lake Manyara, our task was to count the number of species and animals in each transect and habitat. A seemingly simple task became quite tedious when we spotted what turned out to be over 200 zebra. Not so relaxing. On a more exciting note, we stumbled upon two lions lounging in the shade of an Acacia tree! Naturally, their extremely distant cousin, Boondocks, came to mind! Personally, however, even more exciting than the lions was the moment I spotted the largest, most majestic owl I have ever seen. Cream in color. Huge talons. Orange brush strokes around his eyes. He was omnisciently perched in another Acacia tree: brilliant and wise.  Considering my love for the creatures in general, you can only imagine my excitement!

Even more impressive are the baobab trees- absolutely gigantic! These things look like they are straight out of the Old Testament. They make an appearance over most terrain here, but everytime I see one, it takes my breath away. Most are somewhat hollow and, according to one of our professors, some Maasai used to live in them. Crape myrtle and pear trees have nothin' on these things!

More to come, but for now, much needed sleep! 

visual aid...

Lake Manyara National Park

Literally 30 feet from our Land Cruiser. Then, nine more amble out from behind the bushes. Here I am, finally face to face with the only animal I wanted as a kid (dogs and cats were definitely overrated)!

updates from the "dark continent"

1. It's not dark at all...in any way, shape or form! Socially: I am repeatedly amazed by how friendly and welcoming everyone is. Atmospherically: the sun liberally streaming down on my skin feels so delightful. Mentally: my mind is filled with light and hope as I see the joy in every child that merrily approaches us on the running path, in town or by the school.

2. Lake Manyara National Park was good to us on our two day safari. As we entered the park, we saw a troop of 13 Olive Baboons grooming, lounging in the sun, picking buds off Acacia trees. While ugly in general, the babies were still quite adorable. Then, we headed along the crude dirt path in our safari vehicles to the grasslands where we were met by a group of 45 zebra and tons of Warthogs (they may take the crown of ugliest animal spotted) and Impalas. A quick stop at the Hippo Pool revealed a few eyes peering out of the water. One was kind enough to emerge and yawn so large as to show off his entire mouth, teeth, throat...the whole deal.  On the way back, we were greeted by two majestic giraffes that were calmly grazing in the Acacia forest. I am still in awe that these creatures were just a few feet from our jeep—we the outsiders, and they in their natural habitat. However, the most impressive and memorable moment of all was when, about a kilometer from the park entrance, we spotted an elephant!!! Scratch that, four huge African beauties and one adorable baby. All I could think of was sweet, but suave, Rosie from Water For Elephants.  No words can describe my exhilaration!!!!  

3. A little less important, but very pertinent: I am DYING for a Chick-fil-a Spicy Chicken Sandwich!  Wire one to me? Any takers? Asanti sana!

a picture speaks a thousand words...

Karatu, Tanzania

Day 2

Journey to get here, complete. Adventure, just beginning!
Yesterday was a complete whirlwind of activity and acclamation. Everyone here is incredibly friendly; I must have heard Karibu (welcome) at least 20 times just yesterday.  As our driver Moses explained, Tanzanians are a very happy people. While our surroundings consist of dirt roads, and most children tread them with dusty bare feet, the people are the nicest I have ever met.

After a traditional lunch consisting of vegetables, lentils, rice and the most delicious bananas, some of us walked the 5K running path around camp.  It may have been 5 kilometers, but it certainly was nothing I expected to run on.  Hilly, rocky, dusty; it actually circled part of the mountain, not just our camp. However, the experience trumped the terrain. On our way, we met many kids who eagerly ran to us, grabbing our hands, wanting us to play soccer, and insisting that we take their picture.  So photogenic and adorable!  Around one turn we heard a little boy yelling JAMBO!! (hello) from somewhere nearby. Finally, we spotted him...in the top of a tree about a 100 meters up the hillside!  The views were even more breathtaking than what we saw on the ride from the airport to camp.  Incredible panoramnic shots of cornfields, the valley, mountainside bandas, trees of every kind...for miles and miles. Besides the haze, we could see a rough outline of Kilimanjaro.

All of this in one day.  As welcoming as the people are, it goes without saying that I miss home and the comforts of my everyday world. But, for now, this is my everyday world.  It will definitely take some getting used to. One day at a time. However, I am already amazed at what we have seen and absolutely cannot wait for even more!

Jambo!

3 days. 4 flights. 7 hours sleep (total). We're finally here and it could not be more incredible.